THE EDITOR’S DESK :: Three Kings Pt #2 – Brooklyn’s Silver Anniversary Lager

by Harvey Gold on May 3, 2013

3 kingsI had, over a short period of time, 3 brews, two new to me, one a fabulous revisit, and thought I’d share. The first was Flying Dog’s BAG, Barrel Aged Gonzo Imperial Porter, which I wrote about a couple days ago as Part #1 of the trilogy.

Next up was the Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager. Having lunch at The LockviewShana, our bar-manager-who-pays-attention, suggested I try the Brooklyn. And thanks to her for doing so.

This celebrates Brooklyn Brewery’s 25th anniversary. They somehow took a lager and ended up with a doppelbock, or at least that’s how it was explained to me. Coming to me from the tap in a snifter, the nose of this nice amber brew struck me as that of a fine “lager distillation,” the sweetness and grain presence just a little amplified.

The taste, at first blush, followed the same track. I wouldn’t call it a full fledged doppelbock, but it was also far more than a lager. Malty, bigger (if for no other reason, amplified by it’s 9% ABV), a little caramel…frankly folks, I don’t know WHAT it is, exactly. Even the weight of it in the mouth was more than a lager, but again, as if it had been cooked down a bit, just enough to make everything about it vivid and substantial, but not overwhelmingly so.

Then it struck me. The bitter was there. There were hops in this boy, and that also differentiated it from lager, from doppelbock…it reminded me more of a seasonal brew I tried in Texas a while back, Phoenixx Double Extra Special Bitter from Real Ale out of Blanco, TX. Both brews focused, stylistically, on the malt component, thus rounded, caramely, a little sweet and tasty, but both surprising and standing out by showing a real, proper, and thoughtful nod to hops.

Additionally, as part of Brooklyn’s 25th offering, artists Fred TomaselliRoxy PaineJoe Amhrein and Elizabeth Crawford created labelsBottle-conditioned, collectors might want to grab these up and put them away, as this whole project seems headed down the right path.

So Brooklyn’s 25th Anniversary Silver Delicious Whatever? Recommended, big time.

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